While I’ve heard of insulated skirts, I have never actually seen one in person. It doesn’t SOUND like a practical piece of gear, but I’ve come to believe that warm hind quarters and haunches are of the utmost importance. Being a girl born of the wild and wooly north, I’ve had my fair share of frigid forays into the unwelcoming winter, always resulting in the familiar sting of frozen thighs. The remedy? A cozy insulted skirt. Yes, long johns would work as well, but they are a pain to get under my jeans and a complete wardrobe change must be had when my destination has been reached. An insulated skirt would be a perfect quick change for all sorts of activities…think skating, cross-country skiing, commutes to work. Let your imagination take your warm buns where it will.
After convincing myself that I MUST procure this indefectable wonder of warmth, one small detail remained. Where to get my hands on a reasonably priced insulated skirt. I could order one off of the internet, but which to choose? How to compare? How to fit it? And how to afford it? I decided that I would make one. I could knit one up or maybe sew one from fleece. Both good ideas, but I wanted water and wind resistance too. I wasn’t prepared to devote too much time and effort, so I decided to upcycle an old piece…repurpose a neglected vest. I could have used a jacket or some old snowpants, but this vest suited me perfectly and it matches my jeans to boot.
Here is how I did it and how you can do it too!
2) Measure your waist as well as where the waist will be on your skirt. Find the difference between the two. This will be how much you will need to “tuck” into your waist darts. My skirt was 42″ and I wanted a finished waist of 32″ (make it roomy to fit layers under it). I had to reduce by 10″.
3) I made four new tucks as well as tucking the existing side seams. Each tuck reduced the waist by 2″ and each side seam by 1″. I pinned the material so the layers of insulation wouldn’t shift and then I sewed, doubling back the stitching at both the beginning and the ends. Tucks must be made to both the lining AND the face fabric. I made all of the reductions from the side seams and back of the waist, leaving the front of the waist flat. This makes for a more flattering front AND provides shaping for your backside.
4) After trying on for fit, I ran a line of stitching all along the top to hold all of the layers of fabric together.
Time invested: 2 hours
Money invested: $0
Warmth achieved: pure toasty-ness